Tools and materials:
- Sewing machine
Sweater season is upon us which is why I tried my hand at the Molly sweater from Trish Newberry. Sew along with me as I put this piece together step-by-step. This is a really great and easy tutorial that will leave you with a new sweater this winter. I also give a quick review of what I like and what I would change on this DIY sweater.
This pattern comes with two different views. In the sew along I chose view A which has the hood. What I think is really awesome about this Trish Newberry pattern is that the size guide ranges from an XXS to a 4XL.
Once I had cut out all of the fabric pieces from the Trish Newberry Molly Sweater pattern, I started working on the front pocket. I took the strip and double folded it. I then matched its center notch with the notch on the pocket and pinned it in place. I repeated the same on the other side and then
I serged the two strips in place and then pressed the fabric. I suggest topstitching as well just to make it sit a little nicer.
Next, I folded and pressed along the sides and top of the pocket so that I would be able to stitch the pocket onto the main body without any raw edges peeking out.
I laid down the main body pieces and pinned the pocket according to the markings on the pattern and the notches at the bottom.
I used my edge foot to stitch close to the edge and I then added a second row of stitches. If you have a double-needle, that will work great.
In this next step, I pinned and sewed the top front yoke pieces to the back panel along the shoulder seams. As you can see I have chosen a different fabric for the yoke which adds a little bit of interest to the sweater.
For the hood, I took the two fabric places and matched the notches along the top. I then pinned around and sewed the side and top together.
To attach the hood I matched the back seam with the center back. I also matched the hood’s notches with the side seams and pinned it on distributing the hood nicely so that it fit perfectly. I took it over to my serger and serged the edges.
Next, I folded the edges of the hood 3cm (1.18 inches) to create a casing. I wouldn’t be adding a drawstring but I just wanted the look for the sweater. Once again I sewed two lines of stitching for the casing.
I then overlapped the front and added some basting stitching.
To sew the front piece to the yoke, I matched the center front notch to the center front of the yoke. I serged that in place nicely. This hoodie is really starting to come together!
The sleeves are cut on a fold and it’s important to add the notches so we know where and how to attach the different pieces. For the sleeves, I match the center notch up with the shoulder seam and pin it all along the shoulder. With all the pins in, I serged it in place. I then sewed the side seam, going up the arm. I find this the quickest and easiest way to attach sleeves.
I took the band, folded it in half, and sewed. I then folded it in half, with wrong sides together
I then attached the raw edge all the ways around to the bottom of the sweater. This will give you the perfect waistband.
The sleeves don’t have cuffs, so I serged the edges, folded them over, and then stitched.
I really love the fit of the shoulders! What I find a little bit unflattering is the bottom of the sweater. Usually, if I’m wearing a longer sweater, I prefer for the bottom to be a little bit looser. That being said, I would still make view A exactly as it is in the pattern because I really like to tuck my sweater into my pants. Flipping the band of this sweater up creates a very cool, faux tuck look. If I were to make this sweater again, I would probably add cuffs to the sleeves. I may also consider adding buttons to create a little interest.
I would also add in these triangles along the pockets to give a little reinforcement.
All in all, this is a really great sweater! I would love to hear your thoughts on view A! Would you add any other elements to this hoodie? Let me know in the comments below!
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