How to Sew a Blouse With V-Neck, Bustier & Balloon Sleeve Details
Learning how to sew a blouse may seem daunting at first, but it really isn’t that challenging. In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to sew a v-neck, bustier-style blouse with balloon sleeves. Let’s get started with how to make your own blouse!
Tools and materials:
- Fabric
- Paper
- Pen
- Measuring tape
- Ruler
- Tailor’s chalk
- Scissors
- Rotary cutter
- Sewing machine
- Serger (optional)
- Buttons
- Elastic: very thin and ¼ or ½ inch
- Safety pin
For the fabric, I repurposed a pair of linen pants and some fancy chiffon fabric I’m calling “lace”. This project involves making your own pattern, a bustier, and puff sleeves.
1. Make the paper pattern
Fold the paper in half. Measure from your shoulder to your waist and transfer this measurement to the paper along the folded line. Here mine is about 16.5 inches or 42cm.
Mark the shoulder measurement with half the measurement. Here mine is 7 inches or 18cm.
Mark your quarter bust measurement on the length line and add a ¾-inch seam allowance. Here, mine shows about 10 inches or 26cm.
Mark your quarter waist measurement with an additional ¾-inch seam allowance. Here it is about 7½ inches or 19cm.
Connect these points in a diagonal line.
Mark the length from the bust line.
Mark the neckline at 3 inches (8cm).
Mark the neckline depth in the back at 1⅛ inches or 3cm.
Connect the neck points on a curve.
Draw the neckline front at 8 inches (20cm).
Draw a larger curve to connect these points.
Mark the shoulder measurement at 1/10 the shoulder for the sleeve line or 1½ inches (4cm).
Connect the shoulder points on the diagonal.
Mark the center.
Mark the front bodice about ¾ of an inch (2cm) inward.
From the corner of the bust line on the diagonal, measure and mark 1¼ inches (3cm).
Connect these lines together on a curve.
Mark the back higher than the front by ⅜ of an inch (1cm) as the front is deeper and lower.
See the line above in blue for the back measurements
Cut out the pattern.
Cut the pattern in half, marking the front and back. Check to make sure the shoulder and side seams align.
2. Make the bustier pattern
Use the front pattern as a guideline. You’ll make the bustier top and bottom as two separate pieces.
Redraw the pattern on a new piece of paper. Mark it about 12 inches (31cm) down from the shoulder for the top part.
The bottom part should measure about 6 inches (16cm) from the bottom upwards.
Connect these two points on a horizontal line.
Extend by 4 inches (10cm) outside of the pattern. Connect these points on the diagonal.
Mark 1½ inches (4cm) in from the outermost point and draw a small curve.
Cut along the newly curved line with an additional ¼-inch (1cm) seam allowance.
3. Add a button placket
Measure and mark 1½ inches (4cm) across the front.
Lay the pattern on the fabric and add these markings to each of the front pieces.
Fold the fabric in twice for the button plackets on either side. Pin into place and sew into position.
4. Add lace trim to the front
Measure the lacy fabric to be 1½ inches (4cm) wide. Use the rotary cutter to create a scalloped design. Finish the edge of the lace with a narrow zigzag stitch on your regular machine or serge.
To attach, lay the lace on the front pieces, right sides together. Pin and sew.
Topstitch to finish.
5. Make the bustier
Sew two basting stitches about ¼ inch apart on the bottom part of the bustier at the edge.
Pull on the threads to gather. Line it up to the bodice bottom piece, gathering the fabric to match the measurement.
Pin the fabrics, right sides together. Sew.
Do to both front pieces.
Pin and sew the shoulder seams, right sides together.
6. Make the puff sleeves
Fold the lacy fabric in half.
Lay your pattern on top about 4 inches (10cm) from the folded edge.
Place weights to hold the pattern in place and use the rotary cutter to cut the pattern out.
Round the top.
Cut two pieces.
Gather the unhemmed round edge with very thin elastic, leaving the side seams unsewn.
Fold the sleeve in half to find the center and mark.
Pin in place along the entire shoulder, right sides together. Do this to both sides. Sew into position.
7. Complete the sewing
Pin the sleeve and side seams. Sew in place.
Add bias tape to the back neckline. For detailed instructions on how to do this, see my other video on how to make bias tape.
Make a casing for the sleeve. Fold the fabric in towards the wrong side measuring the width of your elastic. Pin in place. Measure the width of your arm and cut the elastic to that length. Sew up the casing, leaving about an inch unsewn.
Attach a safety pin to your elastic and thread it through the casing. Once the elastic is through, gather the ends together and secure the elastic either by knotting it very tightly and cutting off the ends, or stitching it together.
Insert the elastic band back into the casing. Distribute the gathers evenly and sew the gap closed. Do to both sleeves.
Double fold the hem at the bottom of the bodice. Pin in place and sew into position.
Add 4 buttons and make 4 button holes.
You’ve just learned how to sew a blouse with balloon sleeves!
How to sew a blouse
Please comment below if you made this DIY v-neck bustier blouse or share your photos while wearing it. Thanks for joining me for this tutorial. Let me know your thoughts on the final result!
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