Pattern Testing the Zen Blazer

Zen Blazer

Let’s get into the Zen Blazer. So, this blazer has so many things going on, many of which I learned how to do for the first time with this project. The blazer is fitted and features princess seams, a shawl collar, a back vent and an amazing grommet detail on the sleeves. This pattern is recommended as an advanced pattern and I totally agree. This pattern kicked my butt! Let me just say that is was in no part fault of the pattern. It was ALL me. So, here is the deal. I don’t really mess with patterns that have princess seams because I don’t know how to grade a princess seam pattern properly. I can gladly say that I can now, but not before I started working on this pattern. I would also like to say that I do not want to discourage you from giving this or any other pattern a try. I DO NOT consider myself as an advanced sewist although I’ve been sewing for 7 years. I know that sounds crazy, but I am constantly learning new techniques and the only way I’ll learn new techniques is by trying new things! Now, I won’t shy away from patterns that contain princess seams!

Pattern Sizing + Grading

I usually have to grade many of the patterns I make because I’m in between sizes. The Zen Blazer was no different. My bust, waist and hip measurements put me in three different sizes. Happens all the time. I made 3 different muslins/toiles for this pattern. Yes, 3! I wanted to get this right y’all. I really wanted to get the fit correct and I wanted to do Jasmine’s pattern justice! I think I did pretty good. As I said before, my issue was grading the pattern in between sizes. Based on my body measurements, I was between a sizes 16 – 22. I cut the front and back pieces at a size 16. Then I graded the size 16 front and back side pieces to a size 22. How you do that is by drawing a line from the armcycle starting at the size 16 to the hem at the size you want to end up at which was a 22 for me. It took some trial and error, but I think I finally got the fit right.

Now, let’s get into this sleeve grommet situation! I went on Amazon to look for some grommets because I knew I wanted mine to be dark, I didn’t want the gold or silver ones you normally find at the store. I went with THIS set. I love it because it came with so many grommets and it has a real official tool to install your grommets successfully. It was super easy to do, I promise.

I purchased this fabric from Joann’s a while ago on clearance so I know they don’t have it anymore. It’s from their Casa Collection and I love it. This is the matte satin finish. I made a dress using the same fabric HERE. I decided to style my Zen Blazer with a ball grown skirt from Ellis Sewing Co I made to wear with my blazer. Once the world opens back up, I’ll be ready for a night out on the town with the Mr.

You might recall that I pattern tested for Jasmine last month and made the Allison Dress. You can now make your very own Zen Blazer as it was just released today! The link to her Etst shop is HERE and she also you can also find her at http://www.jreedesiree.com. Make sure you head on over to Jasmine’s Instagram and show her some love @sewmuchjazz! I hope you love my blazer as much as I do!

Until Next time!

Johanna