How to Sew a Small Zipper Wallet That Will Fit Inside Any Handbag

One of my most requested tutorials is how to sew a fabric zipper wallet for women. 

The design I’ve come up with has a central zippered coin pocket and slots for cards or banknotes at each side.

This project would be suitable for an advanced beginner. Measure carefully and take your time.

Tools and materials: 

• Cotton linen for outer
• Cotton lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing
• 15 3/4 inch (40 cm) zipper
• 4 3/4 inch (12 cm) zipper
• Fabric marker
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Fabric clips
• Iron
• Sewing machine

1. Cut out the fabric

Cut out the pieces from the main fabric, lining and interfacing as shown in the diagram.

2. Coin pocket

Sandwich the ends of the smaller zipper between the 3 1/4 by 1 1/2 inch (3 by 4 cm) lining pieces, with the right sides facing the zipper.

Sew in place.

Fold the lining pieces outwards and top stitch.

Place one of the 3 3/8 by 5 7/8 inch (8.5 by 15 cm) pieces right side up. Put the zipper centrally on the top edge with the right side uppermost.

Lay a second lining piece on top with the wrong side uppermost and sew the top edge.

Fold the fabric under the zipper and top stitch.

Attach the other two pieces to the second side of the zipper tape in the same way and top stitch.

Join the two inner and two outer sections of the pocket together along the long open sides.

Finger press the seams open. Turn the pocket right side out and trim the zipper ends.

Sew the side seams.

3. Card and note pockets

Place the two 13 3/4 by 5 1/8 inch (35 by 3 cm) pieces with the right sides uppermost.

Divide one piece into four sections as shown.

Fold each section to the wrong side in turn and press.

Top stitch along each fold.

Fold the raw edge of the smallest section to the wrong side and top stitch.

Fold the section to the wrong side.

Concertina fold the other two sections so the top edges are 3/8 inch (1 cm) apart and press.

Draw a line across the pockets 3 inches (7.5 cm) from the top edge.

On the wrong side, fold the section below the line over the back of the pockets and press.

Tuck it under the first pocket.

Turn the pockets over. Wrap the 4 by 1 1/2 inch (10 by 4 cm) pieces wrong side up over the side edges of the pockets.

Sew in place.

Fold the fabric pieces outwards.

Turn the raw edges to the wrong side and fold them over the pocket sides.

Top stitch in place.

Make a second set of pockets in the same way.

4. Gussets

Fold the four 6 3/16 by 2 3/8 inches (17 by 6 cm) pieces in half widthways with the right sides inside and sew the short edges.

Turn the right side out and top stitch both short ends.

5. Shape the main section

Watch the video from 7:41 to 8:19 to see how to draw and cut out the shape from the interfacing.

Iron the interfacing to the back of the main fabric, leaving a space of 3/8 inch (1 cm) between the interfacing and the edge of the fabric.

Cut out the shape with a 3/8 inch (1 cm) allowance all around.

Use as a template to cut the largest piece of lining to the same size.

6. Attach the card pockets

Place the card pockets 2 inches (5 cm) from the top and bottom edges of the lining, on the right side.

Sew in place around three sides.

Sew the gussets either side of each pocket.

7. Insert the main zipper

Separate the two parts of the large zipper.

Place along the top and bottom edges of the lining.

Put the main fabric piece on top with the wrong side uppermost.

Sew along the outer edges of each tape.

Turn the wallet right side out and top stitch the seams.

Turn the fabric wrong side out and trim the edges of the zipper.

Replace the zipper tab.

Sew the center sections of the wallet together at each end, through all three layers.

Fold the wallet so the lining is on the outside and sew the side edges together.

Place one of the 4 3/4 by 1 3/4 inch (12 by 4.5 cm) pieces under each side seam and sew in place.

Bind the raw edges as before.

8. Attach the coin pocket

Turn the wallet right side out.

Sandwich each side of the coin pocket between the long edges of two of the gussets.

Sew in place.

Bind the raw edges with the two 4 by 1 1/2 inch (10 by 4 cm) pieces.

How to sew a small zipper wallet

This was such a satisfying project to make and I’m delighted with how it turned out.

It does require accurate cutting and sewing, so it takes time and patience.

However, you now have a beautiful small zipper wallet that doubles as a clutch bag to be proud of!

Please let me know in the comments what you think of it.