Sewing Tutorial: How to DIY Cute and Comfy Overalls

by ModernModiste
12 Materials
5 Hours

Overalls are one of those garments you either love or hate. I'm in the lovers group and I think they're super cute, especially overall shorts.

You hardly ever catch me wearing white, but I was inspired to take a chance and make white DIY overalls from scratch.

This project is suitable for intermediate sewists who are ready to draft more complex patterns.

Drafting pattern

1. Draft pattern

See the video from 1:35 to 5:39 for how I created the overall pattern.

Pin the pattern pieces to your fabric and cut them out. 

Pattern pieces

Cut three fly facings and three fly guards and add fusible interfacing to all of them.

Attaching pockets

2. Attach pockets

Finish the raw edge of the pocket backing. 

Turn in and top stitch the seam allowance on the coin pocket and attach it to the backing.

Attaching pockets

Sew the pocket bag to the front of the shorts along the curved edge. Press it to the inside and add two rows of topstitching.

Baste the coin pocket and backing to the corner and sew the bottom edges of the pocket to the front seam with wrong sides facing.

Attaching pockets

Turn the seam to the inside and sew the bottom with right sides facing. Add basting stitches to hold the pocket in place.


3. Shorts fly

Fold the fly guard in half with right sides facing and sew along the bottom curved edge. Trim the excess from the corner and turn it right side out.

Finish the curved and long straight edges of the fly facing.

Sew the fly guard and facing to the front seam of your shorts with right sides facing.

Notch into the seam allowance just below the fly facing and press the facing to the inside.

Notch the seam on the other side and press the fly guard out. Top stitch both in place, with two rows on the fly facing.


Fold under the seam allowances on the front seam and pin them together. Sew two rows of topstitching over the seam.

Front bib

4. Front bib

Finish the inner front edges of the bib and sew them together. Press the seam open.

Press a double fold hem along the top and sides of the bib and top stitch it.

Press in the sides of the front pocket. Turn in a double hem at the top and sew it down.

Attach the pocket to the bib with two rows of topstitching.

Joining bib

5. Join bib

Attach the two remaining fly facings to the sides of the front shorts. 

Fold them to the inside and top stitch along the edge.

Front bib

Join the bib to the shorts with right sides facing.

Front bib

Make two or three buttonholes in each fly facing.

Shorts back

6. Shorts back

Finish both edges of the center back seam and join the seam. 

Press the seam open and top stitch either side of it.

Press in the sides of the back pockets and pin them to the back of the shorts. 

Shorts back

Double fold the curved edges of the upper back.

Sew with two rows of topstitching.

Shorts back

Fold in the top edge of the two remaining fly guards.

Fold them in half and attach them to each side of the back in the same way as you attached the fly facings to the front.

Shorts back

Press in the seam allowances of the shoulder strap. Fold them in half and press again.

Press in the bottom and side edges of the strap support piece.

Line up the straps on the wrong side of the back and pin the support piece over them at the top. Sew in place on the wrong side.

Shorts back

Snip off the excess fabric at the top. Fold the support piece over to the right side and top stitch it to the back.

Assembling DIY overalls

7. Assemble

Pin the front to the back at the side seams, starting just below the fly guards and facings.

Pin the inner leg seam.

Sew in place. Top stitch two rows on the side seams, including the lower inch of the fly facings.

Hem the bottom edge of each leg.

Assembling DIY overalls

Thread the rectangle buckle and overall buckle over the free end of each strap. Add the buttons to the front bib.

Attach the jeans buttons to the fly guards.

DIY overalls

DIY overalls

DIY overalls

I loved this pattern so much that I made a dark blue denim set. I made the white set in the video in lightweight denim.

Once I'd seen how good it looked in the dark blue, I made another white set in heavyweight fabric. 

Let me know in the comments if you prefer the lightweight or heavyweight pair.

Next up, check out my post on How to DIY a Cute Maxi Skirt and Cargo Skirt From Old Pants.

Suggested materials:
  • Denim fabric
  • Template shorts
  • Paper
See all materials

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