Sweetheart Top and Square Neckline Top Sewing Pattern Tutorial

Tools and materials:

• Free PDF pattern 
• 2 x 1.5 yards (150 cm) of 48 inch(150 cm) knit fabric for each style
• Paper for pattern
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Pins
• Scissors
• Twin needles
• Twin needle presser foot
• Zigzag stitch presser foot
• Sewing machine
• Serger (optional)

For both styles: Cut out the fabric

Print out the pattern.

See the video from 0:59 to 2:11 for how I redraft the front and back pattern pieces for these styles.

Pin the adjusted pattern to your material and cut one front and one back in each fabric.

Square neckline top

1. Fronts and backs

With the right sides together, pin and sew the two backs together around the neckline and armholes, leaving the shoulder seams open.

Pin and sew the two fronts together in the same way.

Turn the fronts right side out by pushing the tops of the shoulders through the shoulder straps. 

Press the seams carefully.

2. Shoulders

Push the front shoulder straps into the back shoulders with the right sides facing, and pull them through the opening.

Pin and sew together at the shoulders.

3. Side seams

Turn the top right side out.

Pin and sew the side seams of the two fabrics independently with the right sides facing, matching the underarm seams.

4. Hem

Turn the top right side out again.

Turn the raw edge of each fabric to the wrong side by 0.4 inches (1 cm) and pin them together, matching the side seams.

Sew with a single needle using a zigzag or lighting bolt stitch.

Sweetheart neckline top

1. Shoulders

With the right sides together, pin and sew each front to its corresponding back at the shoulders.

2. Neckline

Open the tops out flat and place the right sides together.

Pin and sew them together around the neckline, matching the shoulder seams.

Clip into the corners of the neckline and turn both tops right side out.

3. Armholes

Lay the tops out flat with the armholes at the top and bottom.

Roll the bottom armhole and side seams up towards the top armhole.

Stop about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the armhole.

Pick up the top layer of fabric at the shoulder seam and bring it over and under the "burrito" roll to meet the lower layer.

Pin them together with the right sides facing.

Continue to pin the two armholes together in the same way, folding the rest of the fabric inside the "burrito". Sew in place.

Turn the tops right side out and repeat for the second armhole.

4. Side seams

Turn the top right side out again and pin and sew the side seams of the two fabrics independently with the right sides together, as before.

5. Hem

Turn the top right side out.

Separate the two hems at the front. 

Take the top layer up over the front and down the back to meet the opposite hem with right sides facing. 

Pin them together from side seam to side seam.

Release the back edges from the burrito and pin them together in the same way, leaving a 1.2 inch (3 cm) gap in the center.

Sew around the lower edges, excluding the gap.

6. Finishing

Carefully turn the top right side out through the gap in the lower edge.

Fold in the raw edges and hand stitch the opening closed.

Sweetheart top and square neckline top sewing pattern

Both tops are fully reversible with all the seams hidden between the layers. 

The burrito method takes a little practice but it gives a great result, especially when lining a garment.

I’d love to know if you try it. Also let me know if there are projects you’d like me to make or techniques I can demonstrate for you.

Next up, check out my post on How to DIY a Cute Cowl Neck Mini Dress.