The Trudie Top- DIY Sewing Tutorial

by The Hemming

Easy, cute Summer top. This is a quick afternoon sew and can be worn day or night.

Ensure you read all the below requirements before purchasing or cutting fabric.

What you need:

Woven fabric. I used a cotton poplin from Spotlight.
12mm wide elastic
Loop turner
Ruler/ Tape Measure
Scissors
Iron

Fabric & Elastic Consumption:

The amount of fabric and elastic used is based on your measurements. Please see my measurements below as a guide. If your bust circumference is 5cm more than mine, you will need to add 5cm to the length of the top piece. Eg. The length of fabric I used for the top was 115cm, but if your bust circumference is 5cm more than mine then you would cut your top at 120cm long. If you have quite a large bust you will also want to add more height to the top. To measure elastic, wrap around the body until it's tight but comfortable.

My measurements are as below:

Above Bust: 80cm
Bust: 85cm
Under Bust: 72cm

* This design uses an overlocker. If you do not have an overlocker, you can use zig zag stitch to finish seams. For the roll hem, you can extend the top height by 12mm and do a 6mm double roll instead.

Instructions:

1. With right sides together, sew down the center back seam on the top piece at 1cm.

2. Overlock or finish seam and press.

3. Finish top edge with regular overlocking and bottom edge with a roll hem.

4. Fold overlocked edge to wrong side by 2cm and iron. This is the top edge that sits above the bust. Pin in place.

5. Iron both long edges of elastic casing in 5mm.

6. On the longest stitch length, sew a row of stitching 3cm in from roll hemmed edge. This will be the guide for when you sew the casing in.

7. Return stitch length to normal. Take the elastic casing and position it on the center back seam as pictured, on the inside of your wide stitch guide on the wrong side of your fabric. Ensure raw end of casing is lining up with the overlocked seam allowance and raw folded edges are hidden under the casing. Sew as close to the edge as possible, this is very important. Sew around entire casing and stop 10cm before end.

8. The casing is deliberately too long, so when you are 10cm from finishing your seam, line up the unstitched end over the stitched down end and allow for a 6mm turn back and a 1cm overlap of the 2 ends. Trim off excess casing. Pin turned back end over the top of the stitched down end. Sew end down as pictured.

9. Overlap elastic raw ends by 1cm and zig zag together. Do this for both elastic pieces.

10. Place under bust elastic under the casing and sew down other side of casing with the elastic inside. Use your fingers to push the elastic under the casing so you do not sew through the elastic, ensure you sew as close to the edge as possible to avoid this issue. As you sew you will need to pull the elastic through to continue sewing the casing down. Separate gathers and steam with the iron.

11. Carefully unpick and pull out your casing guide stitch (the row of longest length stitching you have sewn in 3cm from the hem). Remove pins from top edge overlocking. Place above bust elastic under the folded hem and sew down through the center of the overlocking. Separate gathers and steam with the iron.

12. With right sides together sew down the length of the straps with a 1cm seam allowance.

13. Using a loop turner, turn your straps out the correct way. Iron straps flat with seam on the edge.

14. Put top on and pin straps in place at the correct length, trim straps if necessary. Fold under strap end by 6mm. Place on inside of garment and line up end with the edge of the overlocking. Pin in place.