How to Sew a Simple Knit Skirt With Pockets (PLAYFUL)
In this article, we will look at how to sew a very simple skirt with pockets and knit hems. This pattern is suitable for intermediate sewers and beginners (who already know how to sew knits).
You can explore the pattern featured in this article here:
The pattern for women’s skirt PLAYFUL is designed for light knits. I recommend using classic cotton knit with elastane (195g/m² to 290g/m² or 0.5 lb/yd² - 0.75 lb/yd²). Light knits are particularly suitable for summer skirts (don’t forget to choose suitable underwear so that it does not show through your thin skirt). Heavier knits are suitable for autumn and winter models, you just have to combine your skirt with nice stockings. :)
You can sew the skirt on an overlocker or a regular sewing machine. However, the seams must be elastic in both cases so that they do not burst. When sewing with a regular sewing machine, please follow the recommendations in this article:
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1 - Pattern layout
Primary fabric pieces:
- 1x front piece (cut on the fold)
- 1x back piece (cut on the fold)
- 2x pocket piece - whole
- 2x pocket piece - with an opening
- You can choose a different fabric for these pieces that is similar in properties to your primary fabric.
- 1x waistline hem (cut on the fold)
- 1x bottom hem (cut on the fold)
All seam allowances are 1 cm (0.4”) wide.
Next, prepare rib-knit pieces for lining the pockets. These should be 4 cm (1 5/8”) wide and approximately 20-25 cm (7 7/8”–10") long.
2 - Pockets
The pockets can be sewn in two ways - as classic round pockets or with a distinctive lining. You can have two pockets on your skirt or just one.
2.1 - Simple round pockets
If you want to sew simple round pockets, you can follow this video tutorial:
Take the front piece and put it right side up. Lay the pocket piece with a pocket opening over the front piece (right side to the right side). Pin the two pieces together (in the pocket opening area).
Sew the pocket piece to the front piece (just the pocket opening part). Slip the pocket piece under the skirt. You can let the edge of the pocket piece peek out slightly above the edge of the pocket opening of the front piece - it creates an interesting contrasting element. If you don't want to do that, place the pocket piece so that no part of it peeks out. Pin (or baste) the pocket opening in this position.
Topstitch the pocket opening.
2.2 - Pockets with lining - Preparation
Take the back piece and lay it right side up. Place a narrow strip of the rib knit (folded in half lengthwise, right side out) on top of the pocket opening. Sew the strip to the front piece along with the entire pocket opening - use elastic stitches. Stretch the strip while sewing, using your fingers to help it sit properly along the entire curve.
My tip: I recommend sewing the pocket lining with a three-step straight stitch, even if you normally use an overlock. There will be many layers of fabric in this area and the overlock loops would make the seam unnecessarily thick and the whole pocket opening would be very thick and stiff.
Sew the second pocket opening in the same way. Iron the front piece of the skirt.
2.3 - Pockets with lining - Inner pocket pieces
Fold the ironed edge of the pocket opening towards the front piece of the skirt to reach the cutting edge. Pin the pocket piece with an opening to the cutting edge (right side to the right side). You only need to pin at a few points.
Now sew the pocket piece with an opening to the skirt - the skirt piece (right side up) forms the bottom layer, the strip of rib knit rests on top of it (twisted so that its cutting edge is flush with the cutting edge of the skirt) and the pocket piece with an opening is on top (right side down). Sew the whole "sandwich" very slowly to keep all the layers in the correct position. Use an elastic stitch (e.g. three-step straight stitch).
Work on the other side in the same way.
Then flip the pocket piece over the edge of the skirt. Finished (cleaned from both sides) pocket opening hem should appear.
2.4 - Pocket pouches
Now iron all pieces carefully. The front piece is placed right side down, the pocket pieces with openings are on the back of the skirt, right sides up. Place the whole pocket piece over the piece with the opening (right side to the right side) and pin the entire pocket pouch.
HOW TO SEW A SIMPLE SKIRT - POCKETS
Sew the pocket pouch. If you have an overlock, now is a good time to start it.
HOW TO SEW A SIMPLE SKIRT - POCKETS
This is what the skirt should look like.
3 - Side seams
Lay the front piece (right side up) on your table and put the back piece over it (right side down). Pin and sew both side seams (use elastic stitches).
4 - Hems
Lastly, we have to sew the hems - bottom and waistline. Prepare the hems according to the pattern. Take the first one and fold it in half (right side in). Sew the two shorter sides to form a loop (use elastic stitches). Prepare the second hem in the same way.
Fold (“roll”) the hems in half (lengthwise, right side out) and pin them to the skirt.
Sew the hems to the skirt (use elastic stitches). Turn the skirt face side out and iron it. Wear your new skirt with joy! ♡
You can explore the pattern featured in today’s article here:
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