How to Sew an Invisible Zipper, A Step-By-Step Tutorial

Sara SJ Kim
by Sara SJ Kim
9 Materials
20 Minutes

While I was editing a video, I thought it would be nice for you to learn how to sew an invisible zipper in advance, especially for those who aren't experienced or are feeling intimidated.

I hope this step-by-step video is clear enough for you to feel like you have mastered the invisible zipper but always remember, you will need to practice to make it look neat.

Experience with a regular zipper will help immensely when learning to sew an invisible zipper.

Tools and materials:

  • Sewing machine
  • Pins
  • Zipper
  • Fabric
  • Lining fabric
  • Invisible zipper presser foot
  • Interfacing (optional)
  • Marker
  • Iron
Prepping the fabric and zipper

1. Prep the fabric and zipper

To start, you want to prepare the main fabric as well as the lining fabric. I marked the area where the zipper will go.

I forgot this time but adding interfacing will make a neater and stronger zippered garment.  

Cutting the zipper to make it shorter

If your zipper is too long, create a new bottom stop by zigzag stitching and trimming it about 2 inches from the bottom.

We don't need to finish the edge because we are using a lining so the raw edges will be hidden. If you're not using a lining, you can serge or finish the edge using your preferred method.  

Placing the fabric right sides together

To secure the pieces together before adding the zipper, place them right sides together and use a few backstitches at the bottom.  

Pressing the seams open

2. Press open the seams

Next, open the seams and press.

Placing the zipper on the fabric

3. Place the zipper on the fabric

Open the zipper and press the teeth of the zipper away from the zipper tape. We will be sewing as close to the zipper teeth as possible, so this will help a lot.

Tip: If you're having a hard time pressing it, soak the zipper in the water and then press open.  

Bending the zipper and marking it

Bend the upper end of the zipper close to the zipper teeth and mark.

Pinning the zipper to the fabric

4. Sew the zipper

Start with the right side because it's easier to sew. Align the zipper teeth to the fold line and pin well. 

Sewing an invisible zipper

Try to sew as close to the teeth as possible. Let your invisible zipper presser foot do all the work. 

Pinning the left well

When the right is done, start on the left, making sure to pin it well so that it doesn’t wiggle. 

Making sure the sides align

Make sure both sides align well before pinning the left side, then pin as close to the teeth as possible. 

Pinning the lining to the fabric

5. Sew the lining

Open the seam, match the lining, and pin. 

Sewing the top, stopping 2 inches in

Sew together, stopping 2 inches from the zipper teeth. 

Making the lining fabric show

Now, instead of matching the main fabric and lining fabric, you want to make the lining fabric show. Trust me when I say it looks beautiful on the inside. 

Invisible zipper tutorial

Pin it and sew anywhere between the main stitches and the edge. Just make sure it's straight. Don’t forget to move the zipper pull when you reach it, just like when you sew regular zippers.

Gap between the lining and the fabric

Now, the upper edge doesn't match, but that's OK.

Sewing the gap closed

6. Sew the vent

Fold the gap to make both layers flat and even, then sew the vent left at the top. 

Trimming the seams and corner

Trim the seam and also trim the corner if necessary, then turn it right side out. 

How to install an invisible zipper

Repeat all steps on the other side. 

DIY invisible zipper

How to sew an invisible zipper

How to sew an invisible zipper tutorial

Now you have a nicely lined, invisible zipper that will never get stuck thanks to the gap between the teeth and the lining. I hope you enjoy this short tutorial on how to sew an invisible zipper.

Suggested materials:
  • Sewing machine
  • Pins
  • Zipper
See all materials

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