A Twist on a Classic Trench: The Delma Cape From Fibre Mood a Timeless

by Sewmuchtodesign
7 Hours

Introducing the Delma Cape from the Special No. 3 Fibre Mood pattern release.

Delma is such a fantastic addition to your coat collection! It is a playful, practical short cape with elegant styling. I love the tailored details and design this pattern offers. It creatively incorporates all of the elements of a classic trench; with a twist. This fashionable No. 3 Special release has an extraordinary collection of 15 wardrobe essentials that will add glamour and variety to multiple fashion seasons.

I choose to sew my Delma Cape with a very special vintage fabric. It was gifted to me by a dear friend who uncovered it neatly folded amongst her mother's things. This "Elephant Grey" ultra suede fabric, still with its original tag attached, had been carefully stored for years. It came from her Grandmother Hilde's fashion store downtown Montreal. My friend vividly remembers travelling as a child with her grandmother to Switzerland and Milan, touring fashion houses and searching for fabrics. Hilde's Originals was a hive of activity and high fashion in the 1960 and 70's. Ultra Suede was "The" fabric at the time, having been catapulted into populatirty and haute couture by Halston's famous shirt dress designs.

Originally, I had wanted to create a longer line garment , but I was limited by the amount of the fabric, so when I saw the Delma I knew that it would be the perfect choice. I had finally found my opportunity to create a chic twist on the classic vintage style. I am so pleased that I found this unique, creative pattern to honour the history and quality of the fabric. I finished my cape with tone-on-tone vintage buttons from Hilde's shop. Tucked inside is a label from her collections, my ode to vintage fashion and fabric. I think Halston would approve-so would Hilde.

The cape incorporates many of the aspects of a traditional trench. This is the first time I have sewn something with a storm flap. The storm flap is designed to prevent rain from getting in through the front. This particular flap is designed to overlap the buttons and front placket, keeping you warm and dry. The storm flap is not only useful, it adds a chic design element and minimalist styling to the entire silhouette of the cape. The back of the cape features similar lines with a deep back yoke pleated flap. This second flap adds an extra layer of protection against heavy rain while adding extra room for easy movement. In order to prevent the pleat from flapping in high winds a button tab is often added to underside of the flap.

I choose to make my cape with the traditional collar. This particular collar is often referred to as a Napoleon collar. When the placket is left unbuttoned it lies flat producing a lapel for the collar. The cape can also be sewn with a hood. I think this option would be great for french terry or fleece. A hooded cape would be pretty for cool walks in the fall or to curl up with on a cool summer evening. Another tradition styling element is the tab button closure on each side of the cape. Button tabs and classic trench buttons are key to creating the twist on a traditional trench finish.

When choosing fabric for a cape consider the back side of your fabric. Ultra suede has a beautiful finish on both sides. Capes offer a “sneak peek” of the reverse side of fabric which can either be seamless like ultra suede or offer a surprise contrast.

Not only is Delma incredibly fun to sew, it is a unique layering piece; a creative addition to your basics wardrobe. Mine will be a lifetime addition to my wardrobe. I look forward to wearing with many iterations of outfits and to many different events. It like me will adapt and change as fashion does, but will hold its own through any trend because of its classic heritage and design.

After all... There is Sew Much To Design.

Happy Traditional Sewing with a Twist,

Lou Sheffer

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