How to Add a Zipper to a Bag in 6 Easy Steps

Tools and materials:

• Nylon zipper
• Pre-made tote bag outer and lining
• Outer bag fabric
• Pins or fabric clips
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Sewing machine

1. Preparation

Cut 4 inches (10 cm) from the height of both the lining panels, so they’re 4 inches (10 cm) shorter than the outer bag.

Depending on where you placed the inner pocket, you could do this from the bottom of the lining or take half from above the pocket and half from below it.

Cut two pieces of the main outer fabric, 3 inches (8 cm) deep and the exact width of the lining for the insert.

Lay the lining panels flat and line up the two new pieces along the upper edge.

Cut a 0.75 inch (2 cm) square from the upper corners of the lining panels and the insert pieces.

2. Attach zipper to lining

Place the insert strips side by side.

Lay the zipper along the cut-out edge of one of the strips, with the right sides together and the edge of the tape aligned with the shorter edge of the strip. 

Line up the top end of the zipper tape with the edge of the cut-out and pin in place.

Open the zipper, so the tab is out of the way.

Pin the other zipper tape on to the second insert strip in the same way.

Sew both sides of the zipper in place between the cut-outs.

3. Attach the lining

Lay the top edge of one of the lining panels over the tape. 

Place the right side of the lining to the tape and align the cut-outs. The zipper will be sandwiched between the lining and the insert strip.

Pin and sew both lining panels in place along the zipper stitch line.

Push the seam allowance towards the strip and edge stitch it in place from the right side.

4. Assemble the lining

Bring the strips and lining panels together with the right sides facing. 

Sew the side seams of the strips and the lining taking a 0.75 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance and leaving an opening in one of the lining seams.

Make a bar tack over the teeth of the zipper level with the inner edge of the cut-outs.

Box the top corners by matching the edges of the cut-outs with the zipper tape sandwiched between them.

Sew straight across the point and trim the excess zipper tape.

Box the bottom corners of the lining in the same way, finger pressing the seams open.

Sew straight across about 2 inches (5 cm) from the point.

5. Prepare the outer bag

Pin and sew the handles to the top edge of the outer bag panels with the right sides together.

Join the panels at the side seam with the right sides facing.

Press the seams open.

Box the lower corners of the bag outer as you did for the lining.

6. Join the bag and lining

Turn the outer bag right side out.

Unzip the lining and place the outer bag inside it, so the right sides are together. Sandwich the handles between the layers.

Pin the outer bag and lining together, matching the side seams and handles carefully.

Sew them together 0.75 inches (1.5 cm) from the raw edges.

Pull the bag out through the opening in the lining and sew up the opening.

Press the top seam flat from the right side, pushing the seam allowance towards the outer bag.

Tuck the lining inside the back.

Press the top seam again.

Top stitch around the bag. Sew one row close to the top edge and a second row 0.75 inches (1.5 cm) below it.

How to add a zipper to a bag

You can use this technique to add a zipper to any tote bag and it will always fit perfectly. The boxed corners mean there are no gaps at either end of the zipper. 

You could also make the insert strips from contrasting fabric to make your bag even more uniquely yours.

I do hope you’ll give this a try because it really is easy to do and gives a great, professional finish. 

I’d love to know what you think of it and I’m really interested to read your comments.

Next, check out my Sleeve Hem Tutorial: How to Shorten Jacket Sleeves.