Pattern Scout Jacket Featuring Fabriclore Silk Taffeta

When I saw this pattern from Pattern Scout I was drawn right away to the styling and the classic lines of the collared version available as an expansion pack to accompany the basic pattern. The expansion pack provides the collar, pocket pattern pieces and instructions to create a placket closure to transform the original pattern into a shacket style coat. In order to create this version you will also need the Cozi coat pattern for the bodice and sleeve pattern pieces as well as for the instructions.

The Cozi jacket is designed as a lightweight jacket with an oversized, slightly cropped fit. It has a dropped shoulder and comes with the option of adding large patch utility pockets on the front bodice. It is a perfect wardrobe staple and offers versatility for both layering and styling. This is an easy jacket to style over jeans, trousers, skirts or dresses and with any kind of footwear. It offers versatility and styling.

The pattern's versatility doesn't stop there! It an be sewn with a woven fabric such as denim, twill, linen, corduroy or like I did... silk taffeta. It can also be sewn with a medium weight knit fabric that has low stretch. Sherpa fleece, sweatshirt fleece or French terry would be ideal. There are funnel neck and hoodie options as well as a zippered closure. This one pattern can almost single handedly provided you with all of your jacket needs.

Couple this kind of styling with stunning Jacquard Banarasi silk taffeta from Fabriclore and you have a winning combination. This fabric comes directly from Banaras (Varanasi). It is a gorgeous fabric with the zari work woven directly into the taffeta silk. The antique pewter motifs are made of synthetic yarns that are meticulously woven into a floral design. Although the fabric is traditionally made for sarees, I have created a modern interpretation of this incredible traditional ethnic wear.

The fabric itself has good stand so it offers crisp lines and styling. Due to the nature of the woven design it definitely needs to be lined. The texture of the fabric and the complex patterns woven into it o create many loops of thread on the reverse side of the fabric that without lining would make a garment look unfinished. The origins of this weaving technique date back to the sixth-century and it remains one of the most popular types of fabric to this day.

I had enough fabric to self-line the two front bodice pieces with the fabric itself. I liked the idea that if the jacket hung open you would continue to see the fabric on the inside. It creates a nice finish as well for the collar and button placket. The back and sleeves are lined with a white poly-blend lining.

To line the jacket I simply cut out two jackets. As mentioned, I cut two additional front bodice pieces from the fabric. The lining of the jacket is cut 1 1/4 inches shorter than the bodice so that it is not folded double when hemming the jacket. I did the same with the sleeves, but the lining is only 1/2" shorter. Once the collar was constructed I slipped the lining into the jacket, securing the back lining under the collar. I tacked the shoulder seams and the side seams so that the lining wouldn't shift in side the jacket.

I am so pleased that the finish product is what I had imagined. This jacket is a wonderful addition to my wardrobe and I think it will be a great statement piece to wear throughout the spring and cooler days into the fall. It will be fun to pair it with a more formal sheath dress or trousers for fancy occasions and just as easily feature it with sneakers for a more street style look.

I know that there will be several versions of the Cozi Jacket that will be created for my seasonal wardrobes. The options for a zippered front, hoodie and high collar only add more fun variation choices. It will be fun to make it in both woven and knit fabrics. If you would like to order this fabric or any other fabrics from Fabriclore use this link and the code FABLOUISE for a 10% discount off your order.

After all.... There is Sew Much To Design,

Happy Sewing,

Lou Sheffer

• Jackets and Cardigans