Closet Core Patterns Cielo Dress Tutorial
Today’s DIY dress tutorial is for the Cielo dress by Closet Core Patterns. This pattern creates a semi-cropped top and a shift dress, both of which have some unique features, like hidden pockets and an angled shoulder yoke. I love the basic yet timeless design of this pattern, which fits perfectly into my capsule wardrobe. So grab your pattern and fabric, and let’s sew together.
Tools and materials:
- Cielo dress pattern
- Woven fabric
- Scissors
- Pins
- Sewing machine
- Serger
Cut
Cut out the pattern pieces as shown in the video from 1:21-1:38.
Sew darts
Begin construction by aligning the dart notches, pinning them in place, and sewing them down. When sewing the darts, don’t backstitch at the beginning or end of the stitching, and leave a tail of thread on either end.
Tie and press
Tie off the threads on the inner dart points, then press the seams of the darts flat.
Pin
Pin the curved edges of the dress front and pocket pieces together.
Create pockets
Draw straight lines between the pocket markings to help you know where to sew. Start sewing across the fabric, backstitching a few times before and after the openings to help secure it.
Then sew down the curved edge, and serge the seam allowance.
Press and baste
Fold the pocket piece down, and press it flat. Then use a basting stitch to sew the pocket piece and front dress piece together at the sides.
Pin, sew, and serge
With right sides together, pin and sew the back shoulder pieces to the back of the dress. Then serge the seam allowances.
Press
Press the seam allowances upwards.
Understitch/topstitch
If you prefer the look, you can understitch or topstitch the yoke seams, but it’s not necessary for construction.
Pin, sew, serge, and press
Pin and sew the front and back dress pieces at the shoulders, and then serge the seam allowances. Press the seams towards the back of the dress.
Staystitch
Sew a straight stitch all around the neckline to prevent the curve of the neckline from becoming misshapen. This is called a staystitch.
Trim
Trim ¼-inch off the neckline.
Fold and press
Fold in one end of the neck bias piece by ½ an inch, and press it down.
Pin
Starting with the folded end of the neckline bias at the center back, pin the bias binding to the neckline, right sides together.
Sew
Sew around the neckline, leaving a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Cut
Make small cuts within the seam allowance all around the neckline.
Press and understitch
Press the bias binding towards the seam, and then understitch the binding all around the neckline.
Fold and press
Fold the binding inward along the stitch line, and press it flat.
Fold, pin, and sew
Double fold and pin the binding all around the neckline, then sew it down.
Gather the sleeves
Sew two lines of long stitches between the notches on the sleeve. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end of the stitches. Then pull the thread to gather the fabric.
Pin, sew, and serge
Match the notches along the edges of the sleeves and the bodice, and pin them together. Sew the sleeves to the bodice, and then serge the seam allowances.
Pin, sew, and serge the side seams.
Fold and sew
Fold the sleeve cuffs in half, right sides together, and sew the short ends together.
Cut
Cut a little triangle at the angled point of the seam.
Fold and press
Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, ensuring that the seam inside is lying flat. Then press.
Pin, sew, and serge
Slip the sleeve through the cuff and pin the raw edges together, using the notches as a guide. Then sew the cuff to the sleeve, and serge the seam allowance.
Press and stitch
Press the cuff flat, and understitch or topstitch around the seam.
Hem
Serge the bottom edge of the dress. Then fold the hem to your preferred length, press the hem, and sew it down.
Let me know if you liked this dress sewing tutorial, and if you will be using it to construct your own Cielo dress or top.
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Comments
Join the conversation
I just purchased this pattern and this is the view I want to make!
When I was much, much younger this dress was called a "shift" and it was made with or without sleeves that were shorter and not so wide. I remember that it was a Simplicity Pattern with no patch pockets so I made side pockets. :)