How to Make an Ankara Dress With a Pretty Ruffle Hem & Sleeves
In this tutorial, I'll show you how to make an Ankara dress. This gorgeous DIY Ankara dress will be a frilly, flirty, and fantastic addition to your wardrobe. The sturdy fabric is easy to work with and the pattern is simple to follow, even for those just learning how to sew. Let’s get started!
Tools and materials:
- Ankara fabric
- 7-inch invisible zipper
- Fabric chalk
- Measuring tape
- Ruler
- Scissors
- Pins
- Seam ripper
- Sewing machine
What is Ankara fabric?
Ankara is an African wax print fabric, also known as Dutch wax print, and a common 100% cotton material used in clothing in Africa, especially West Africa. The textile is industrially produced and usually features colorful, batik-style prints. Other names include kente cloth and kitenge. The word Ankara can also refer to the traditional African style of clothing.
1. Marking the pattern
Follow the instructions in the video from 0:06-4:36 to draft the pattern for the front of the dress.
2. Cut out the pattern
Cut out the front piece.
3. Pin and cut
Fold the remaining fabric and lay the front piece on top of it, with the folded edge of the front piece 1 inch from the folded edge of the fabric. This will be the extra allowance needed to attach the zipper to the back.
Pin the front piece to the fabric, and cut all the way around it to create the back piece of the dress.
4. Cut the neckline
Cut the neckline on the front of the dress.
Cut the back piece along the fold.
5. Measure and cut
Cut out 4 rectangles, each measuring 29 in x 4 in. These will be joined to create the sleeve ruffles.
6. Cut pockets
Place your hand on the fabric and cut around it to create a pocket pattern piece. Use that piece to cut three more identical pieces.
7. Cut the hem
Cut the hem of the front piece so it curves upwards slightly at the sides. Use the front piece as a guide to create a symmetrical hem on the back.
8. Measure and mark
Measure 8 in from the underarm, and make a small notch to mark where to attach the pockets.
9. Pin and sew the pockets
Pin the pocket pieces in place on both the front and back pieces, and sew them down.
10. Topstitch
Then, fold each pocket piece outward and topstitch along the fold.
11. Pin and sew the dress
Pin the front and back pieces together at the shoulders, along the side seams, and around the pockets. Then sew.
12. Pin, sew, and press the back
Pin and sew the back seam, leaving a 1-inch seam allowance, where you will later attach the zipper. Once sewn, separate the sides of the seam allowance, and press them flat.
13. Rip the seam
Rip open the back seam to the same length as the zipper.
14. Pin and sew the zipper
Turn the dress so the fabric is right side out. Open the zipper and pin it in place along the seam allowance, so the edge of the zipper tape is aligned with the fold. Then sew it down.
Repeat on the other side.
15. Cut and sew the ruffle hem
Cut two rectangles, each measuring 60 in x 9 in. Sew them together along one short edge. This will be the hem ruffle.
16. Hem and gather
Hem one long edge of the ruffle by folding the fabric once and sewing it down. Run a basting stitch across the second long edge, and gather the fabric along the thread to create a ruffled effect.
17. Pin and sew
Pin and sew the ruffle along the bottom edge of the dress.
18. Attach sleeve ruffles
Hem one long edge of each sleeve ruffle, and gather the second long edge, just as you did for the ruffled hem. Then, pin and sew the sleeve ruffles in place around the armholes.
19. Cut, pin, and sew the neckline
Cut a strip of fabric equal in length to the neckline of the dress. Pin the strip along the neckline, right sides together, and sew it down.
20. Fold, pin, and sew
Then, fold the strip towards the wrong side of the fabric, making sure you cover the top of the zipper and all the raw edges around the neckline. Pin it in place and sew it down.
How to make an Ankara dress tutorial
You’re done! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. If you use this ruffle hem dress sewing pattern to make a DIY Ankara dress of your own, please post your results! We’d love to see how it turns out.
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