6 Simple Steps to Sewing Neck and Armhole Facing Perfectly

Sew Over It
by Sew Over It
6 Materials
1 Hour

We’re back with another sewing how-to! This time, we’ll be showing you how to sew a neckline and armhole facing.

Often, some sewing patterns call for a full neckline and armhole facing and it can get a little complicated to sew. That’s why we’re here to show you a quick and seamless way!

After you’re done, you’ll see how easy sewing a neck and armhole facing actually is!

Tools and materials:

  • Dress
  • Pins
  • Sewing machine
  • Cut-out facing
  • Scissors
  • Thread
How to sew neckline and armhole facing

Before we get into the actual steps, I will be showing you how to do this on our Betty dress patterns. Of course, if you have another pattern to follow, the guidelines are basically the same.

Also, make sure the shoulder seams are not stitched. 

Pinning and aligning the seams

1. Pin and align

Place the facing right sides together with the bodice. Line up the edges, notches, and seams, too. 

Pinning the facing before sewing

Pin the facing all the way around, carefully. 

Pinning where the stitching will end

Measure 5cm (1.96 inches) from the edge of the shoulder strap and place a pin because that’s where’s you’ll stop sewing. 

Sewing along the edge

2. Sew

Now go ahead and sew along the edge, removing each pin so that it doesn’t go through the needle (this could potentially damage your needle and footer). 

How to sew a full neckline and armhole

Again, make sure the stitching stops 5cm (1.96 inches) from the top of the shoulder seam. 

Trimming the seam allowance

3. Clip and trim

Now, clip into the curve of the neckline to add some flexibility. Also, trim off the seam allowance for a cleaner finish. 

Sewing an armhole and neckline facing

4. Iron the seam allowance

Go ahead turn the dress right sides out. Then, iron the seam allowance onto the facing’s side. This will prepare you for the next step; understitching. 

Understitching the seam allowance

5. Understitch the seam allowance

Go ahead and stitch the seam allowance to the facing. Work on the right side of the fabric with your seam allowance going in the direction of the facing.

Stitch about 32-33mm (around 0.1 inches) from the actual seam. Understitching helps keep the facing inside the dress. 

Example of understitching

There’s my understitching; it’s sitting just below the stitch line. 

Joining the shoulders together

6. Join the shoulders

Take one front shoulder strap and one back strap and place them right sides together, on the dress side (your dress should be right sides out). 

Lining up the shoulder seams

Peel back the facing and working with the dress side, line up the shoulder seams. Then, stitch across. 

Placing the facing sides right sides together

How to sew neck and arm facing

Now, take the facing sides and place them right sides together, and stitch across to secure. 

Pressing open the seams

Press open the seams you’ve just stitched.

Pulling the strap to the inside of the dress

Pull the strap to the inside of the dress and line up the shoulder seams. Make sure you do not catch the rest of the strap that’s sitting inside the tunnel. 

Sewing the gap closed

Stitch the 5cm (1.96 inches) gap closed. Make sure you overlap and do a start and reverse at the end. 

Pressing the facing to finish

Now, turn it through. See how seamless that looks? Next, give it a good press and repeat the whole process on the other side. 

Sewing neck and armhole facing

Sewing neck and armhole facing tutorial

Thanks for joining me and I hope you enjoyed my tutorial on how to sew a neck and arm facing. Just a few little tricks and you have yourself a seamless and polished dress or top.

Suggested materials:
  • Dress
  • Pins
  • Sewing machine
See all materials

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Join the conversation
 1 comment
  • Mare Mare on Feb 14, 2022

    Thank you for this tutorial! Perhaps in your next demonstration you can use solid colored fabric and a contrasting thread so your work can be seen by the eye a little better.