Learn How to Sew These Sleek Tailored Trousers

Tools and materials:

• Doretta Pants pattern
• Firm stretch fabric 3 - 5% elastane
• 6 inch (15 cm) zipper 
• 2 buttons
• Fusible woven interfacing
• Interfacing tape
• Pins
• Scissors
• Sewing machine
• Serger (optional)

1. Interfacing

Print the pattern pieces and cut out the fabric. Iron woven, non-stretch interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband and the fly facing.

Cut off the zipper extension from the right front and reinforce both front edges with interfacing tape.

2. Prepare pieces

Sew the two fly guards together along the curved edge, right sides facing.

Turn them right side out and sew along the straight edge, then finish the edge.

Finish the edges on the crotch, inner and outer leg seams, taking care not to cut off the zipper extension on the left front, and on the front fly.

3. Sew darts

Pin and sew the darts on the front and back pieces. Press the back darts towards the center and the front darts towards the outer edges.

4. Fly front

Pin the zipper to the fly guard, right sides facing, leaving a half inch (1 cm) seam allowance at the top above the zipper teeth. Stitch it close to the teeth.

Turn in the zipper extension on the left front and press it.

Pin it to the zipper on the wrong side and sew it along the crease. Top stitch it on the right side.

Place the fly facing on the right leg, right sides together, lining up the straight edge with the crotch seam.

Sew the straight edge in place. Press the seam open and top stitch it close to the fold.

Place the left front on the right front, right sides together. Pin them together at the crotch and sew from the end of the zipper teeth along the crotch seam.

Pin the zipper tape to the fly facing and sew close to the edge. 

Using the fly facing pattern piece as a template, top stitch along the curve without pulling on the fabric.

5. Legs

Join the legs at the inner legs, the side seams and at the crotch.

6. Fitting

Turn the pants right side out and try them on. This is where I discovered that the fabric I used this time was less firm than the one I had used before, and so my tailored pants were too big.

I took them in at the side seams by half an inch (1 cm) at a time until I was happy, basting the seams with contrast thread before re-sewing them. 

7. Waistband

Make the belt loops first if you're using them. They are decorative and optional. Sew one end of each in place above the darts.

Place the waistband so the left side notches are on your left. Fold one long edge to the wrong side by half an inch (1 cm) and baste it. Fold the waistband in half lengthways, wrong sides together, and press. 

Sew along the short edges, right sides facing, and turn the waistband right side out.

Matching the notches, pin the unfolded edge of the waistband to the pants with right sides together and sew it in place.

Turn the waistband to the inside, pin it to enclose the raw edges, and top stitch on the right side.

Sew the other end of the belt loops to the top of the waistband.

8. Finishing

Make an invisible hem at the bottom of the pants legs. Press a crease down the center front of the legs.

Make two buttonholes on the waistband where indicated and sew on the buttons.

DIY tailored trousers

I love the fit of these tailored trousers now they're finished.

You might not want them to fit this closely, in which case I'd suggest making up your size in a stretchier or less firm fabric. Poly viscose, viscose crepe, wool or twill fabrics with elastane will all work well with this pattern.

If you've enjoyed this tutorial, please let me know in the comments below.