The Harmony Woven Top by Style Arc

For my Harmony top I chose this gorgeous fabric from Blackbird fabrics. It is a 100% Ecovero Viscose from Turkey. I fell in love with the contemporary animal print challis.

I am thrilled with the quality and colour of this fabric, and even happier to be able to support a local fabric company!

Harmony can be styled in countless ways which will make it a go to wardrobe basic. It has a loose fitting silhouette which makes it great for pairing with skirts, shorts or pants. The sleeves offer a great ruffle option that dresses up the otherwise simple lines of this pull over top. It is a medium level pattern due to the ruffled sleeve, but most of it straight forward to sew offering chic, classic styling with a simple button loop closure.

I sewed a size 14 top based on bust measurements. As the top has 4" of positive ease, I graded down to a size 12 through the waist and hips. Style Arc includes the measurements for a size 10 so you simply add the size grade to the size 10 until you reach your bust measurements, this determines the size you will need.

Example: Size 10 Bust 39 in. Size 12: 39 + 2"=41 in Size 14: 41 + 2" - 43"

To prep the pattern pieces use light weight iron on interfacing on your front and back neck facing pieces. Stay stitch along the neck line of the facing pieces and the neck opening of the front and back bodice pieces. Staystitching will stop the pattern pieces from stretching/

Begin by sewing the bust darts and pressing them down toward the hemline. When sewing bust darts, finish sewing at the point of the bust. Instead of stitching backwards at the point leave a long thread and tie the ends together. This allows for a smoother point and no extra bulk from backstitching.

With right sides facing, sew the front and back shoulder seams together. I prefer to overlock a shoulder seam and press it towards the back.

To sew the center back seam, stitch from the hemline up to the notch that indicates the neck opening. Press the center seam open.

I like to mark the notch with a double pin as an extra reminder to stop sewing.

Sew the shoulder seams of the front and back neck facings together. Stitch the lower centre back seam of the back neck facing. Press this seam open.

With right sides together, pin the neck facing to the neck of the body. Stitch then turn to the right side and stitch close to the seam on the side of the facing. This is called understitching. It helps the facing to lie flat.

With right sides together, stitch along the long edge of the rouleau loop. Turn it right side out using a loop turner. Baste stitch the loop to the left back between the facing and the back where noted on the pattern.

From the inside, sew the back opening of the bodice to the back facing. Sew from the neckline down to the base of the opening. Repeat for the opposite side. From the right side sew an edge stitch around the back opening.

With right sides facing, sew the front and back side seams together. Press open.

For the Sleeve Construction:

Sleeve Flounces or ruffles: with right sides facing, sew the short underarm flounce seams together. Overlock the hem edge of the flounce then press it up 1/4". Hem.

Sew the underarm sleeve seams together, then sew the short ends of the mid sleeve together. Baste the top sleeve flounce at 1/4" along the top edge. Gather the flounce until it is the same size of the mid sleeve band. Match A to A on the lower sleeve flounce to the lower mid sleeve panel. Match B to B . With right sides together, stitch the top seam of the mid sleeve band and top flounce to the base of the sleeve. Match A to A. All of these sections sew together really nicely. The fit is excellent. If they aren't fitting together, double check that you are matching the correct sections. Marking A and B notches and knowing which is which on the sleeve and flounce patterns will be really important. Use a basting stitch along the head of the sleeve curve. Gather the sleeve to ease it slightly into the armhole matching all notches. Don't be afraid to use lots of pins so that your gathers are even.

Press a hemline 1/2" along the bottom of the top. Fold the bottom of the top up to the fold line, fold again, pin and edge stitch 1/4" to secure the hem.

Sew a small button on the opposite side of the back neck opening across from the rouleau loop.

Now you too can enjoy a lovely top with fun flounce sleeves! .They are a wonderful way to add fun and flare to a top with simple chic lines. I am looking forward to styling my Harmony with a variety of spring and summer basics.

After all..... there is Sew Much To Design

Happy Harmony Sewing,

Lou Sheffer

• Blouse