Flatter Your Eye Shape With the Golden Ratio Eye Makeup Technique

10 Materials
5 Minutes

Here’s an old-school eye makeup technique to tailor any eyeshadow look to your unique eye shape. Rae Morris is the creator of the incredible Golden Ratio eye makeup technique, but other makeup artists like Wayne Goss and Rachel OCool MUA also use it. I can’t wait to try it, so let’s begin!

Tools and materials:

  • Brow pencil
  • Spoolie
  • Concealer
  • Eyeshadow 
  • Lash curler
  • Mascara
  • Blush
  • Lip liner
  • Lip gloss
  • Makeup brushes
Filling in and shaping eyebrows

1. Fill in and shape your brows

First thing’s first, let’s get done with the brows. I’m using a brow pencil to fill in the sparse areas, starting with the upper portion of my brows and then using the spoolie, I brush my brow hair upward, so I can clearly see at the bottom to fill it up while I do so.

Applying concealer to the eyelid as a base

2. Apply concealer to your lid

Next, use some concealer to even out the skin tone on your lid, going all the way up from the lash line to the arch of your brow. This is going to give you a clean canvas to work on the lids.

What is the Golden Ratio eye makeup technique?

3. Mark Point A

Now, for the technique, start by marking the lower point of your eye, where it dips down. Let’s call this point A. 

Using an eye pencil to mark Point A

I just used an eye pencil to mark it, but you can also use eyeshadow.

The Golden Ratio step by step

4. Mark Point B

Then, looking straight in the mirror, mark the highest point of your eye in your upper lash. 

Marking Point B

This is going to be Point B.

How to do Golden Ratio eye makeup

5. Draw a line from Point A to Point B

Starting with Point A, draw a line that goes outward and upward parallel to your lower lash line, and stop at a point that’s aligned with Point B. 

Drawing a line from A to B

For this, I’m using eyeshadow with an angled brush. I’ve seen some people take Point A all the way up to the crease before they join it to Point B. Either way, it gives the same effect, but I prefer to do it this way because it’s much easier.

Filling in and blending the eyeshadow

6. Fill in and blend

Fill in all the gaps with the same eyeshadow. Then, start softening it by blending it out with a small blending brush.

Bringing the eyeshadow up to the crease

I also bring it all the way up to my crease in the outer corner just to give it some definition.

Blending and softening the eyeshadow

Use a larger brush to blend it out and soften it further.

Applying highlight to the eye makeup

7. Apply a highlight shade to the lids and inner corner

Next, use a lighter shade in the inner corner and on your lids. For the inner corner, I just used a flat shader brush.

Neatening the edges with a flat brush

For my lids, I applied the shade with my fingers and then used a flat shader brush to neaten up the edges.

Highlighting the brow bone

8. Highlight brow bones

I just used the residue to highlight my brow bones.

Curling lashes

9. Curl your lashes and apply mascara

I curled my lashes and then applied mascara. I love this mascara, it gives me so much volume and length so I only needed two coats. 

Applying mascara

I also applied the mascara to my lower lash line. If you prefer, you can also use false lashes.

Applying blush

10. Apply blush

To finish off the look, I’m using an angled kabuki brush to apply blush a bit higher on my cheekbones to get a lifted effect

Lining and filling in lips

11. Line and fill in your lips

For my lips, I’m lining them with a shade that is an exact match to my lip shade and I’m using it in the borders as a guide. Then, I’m filling it in with my favorite lip gloss balm.

The Golden Ratio eye makeup technique

The Golden Ratio eye makeup technique

The Golden Ratio technique is so unique and so personal to every eye shape. Here’s my finished look! Although subtle, it gives so much dimension to the eye shape.

I would love to hear your thoughts, so comment below and let me know what you think!

Products used:

Suggested materials:
  • Brow pencil
  • Spoolie
  • Concealer
See all materials

The author may collect a small share of sales from the links on this page.

Join the conversation
 1 comment
  • PMD PMD 3 days ago

    I am fair skinned, gray/blue/green eye color & my eye lashes are invisible until I apply mascara, so eyeliner is a must. It appears you have applied eye liner on the wet edge prior to your 1st step in the process? Please clarify.