How to Sew a Pencil Skirt With Lining & a Zipper, Step by Step

The Crafty B
by The Crafty B
11 Materials
2 Hours

There’s just something so elegant about a pencil skirt. It is ultra-feminine and a classic fashion statement, especially when worn with a tucked-in top and pearls.

If you wanted to know how to sew a pencil skirt with lining, then this tutorial is for you. Below you’ll find my pencil skirt sewing pattern, which you can draft based on your own measurements.

I’ll show you how to sew a pencil skirt, perfect for any occasion. Let’s get started!

Tools and materials:

DIY pencil skirt sewing pattern

1. Make the pattern

After drafting the pattern from the linked tutorial to your desired length and size, lay the fabric flat. Cut the front piece on folded fabric on both the outer layer and lining fabrics. Cut 2 back pieces in the outer fabric and lining. 

Cutting out the waistband pattern

Cut the waistband based on your measurements following the pattern directions.

Placing the darts

Place the darts, following the pattern directions on the wrong side of the fabric with the tailor’s chalk on the front and back pieces, on both the outer and lining fabric.

Marking the zipper allowance

On the back piece, mark the zipper allowance, center seam sewing area, and the space for the back center slit.

Pinning and sewing the darts

2. Start sewing the front

Follow the dart marks and sew the darts into position on both fabrics. 

Attaching the lining to the exterior fabric

Place the front lining and outer fabric right sides together and sew the hems together. Fold the outer fabric in towards the lining by ½ inch. This prevents the lining from peeking through.

How to sew a pencil skirt with lining

Topstitch the bottom on the lining side. Give everything a good press.

How to sew a pencil skirt with a zipper

3. Sew up the back

Mark the back center seams with a ¾-inch seam allowance on each side for a total of 1½ inches on both the outer and lining fabric. Mark the space for the zipper and slit with pins to mark the area to sew.

Sewing the center back seam and back darts

Sew the center back seam with a straight stitch in between the pinned areas, starting and ending with a backstitch for extra security. Press the seam allowance flat. Sew the back darts into position on the back piece.

Sewing the lining to the back piece

Sew the lining darts down on each piece of the lining. Place the lining into the folded seam allowance. Pin in place. Sew the lining down inside of the seam allowance to secure.

Cutting a small notch

At the bottom hem, cut a small notch at the seam allowance fold.

Sewing a pencil skirt with lining

Fold the lining the other way. Sew across the hem to secure. Fold the outer fabric up into the lining by ¼ or ½ inch and topstitch on the lining side.

Pressing the DIY pencil skirt

Press everything well.

Placing the front and back piece right sides together

4. Sew the skirt together

Place the front and back right sides together.

Separating the lining and exterior fabric

Move the lining to one side and the outer skirt fabric to the other.

Sewing the lining and main fabric separately

Sew the outer skirt fabric side seams with a 1-inch seam allowance down either side. Continue the same with the lining side seams. Insert the zipper.

Placing the waistband

Place the waistband’s right side on the inside of the skirt. Leave 1-inch excess on either side of the zipper space. Pin in place and stitch into position.

Sewing the waistband to the pencil skirt

Fold in the waistband for a perfect finish at the beginning and end of the waistband. Then fold the waistband over to the right side and topstitch across. 

How to sew a pencil skirt

How to sew a pencil skirt

I hope my tutorial showed you how to sew a pencil skirt. This silhouette is so flattering.

DIY pencil skirt

I love hearing from you so please leave your comments below!

Suggested materials:
  • Pencil skirt sewing pattern tutorial
  • Fabric: outer and lining - around 1½ yards each
  • Zipper
See all materials

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